Luca Magliano should consider moving his fashion show from Milan Fashion Week to the Cannes Film Festival. Directors like Jim Jarmusch or Chloé Zhao could probably conjure compelling storylines from the designer’s meticulous take on downbeat chic.
Some of the men who tread his raised Perspex catwalk looked like they had just stepped out of the shower to answer the door, pulled an all-nighter or possibly even slept on a park bench. One fellow, eyes downcast, strolled out in a big gray T-shirt with an “I” and a broken heart symbol.
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The press notes mentioned recycled scarves and “shirts made of old shirts,” which explains the weathered, vintage quality to many of the clothes. Yet it was hard to tell what was repurposed and upcycled, or just made to look old, and beaten.
The fashion pack passed a pile of rusty wheelbarrows and plenty of weeds on their way into the show venue, a derelict electrical substation with broken windows and decades of dust stuck in corners.
But while the display had gloomy, dystopian airs, there’s no mistaking Magliano’s sure-handed tailoring and terrific color sense, sliding together cocoa browns with dusty purple, or fiery reds with olive. Here’s a collection that begs for a re-see.
Milan has a new grunge king, and possibly a budding costume designer.
Launch Gallery: Magliano Men’s Spring 2023