A new elegance was the overriding message from fall 2022. The updated dress codes include gender-fluid silhouettes, monochromatic black dressing, sartorial glam touches and an attitude to match. The influences of boundary-pushing red carpet dressing together with Gen Z’s fashion fearlessness are only enhancing this new day in chic menswear.
Prada questioned how to empower men in 2022. “Clothes that make people feel important,” Miuccia Prada said. “It is a practical, everyday thing. But here, you are formally important. You are not casual. And through these clothes, we emphasize that everything a human being does is important. Every aspect of reality can be elegant and dignified.” A sharply tailored double-breasted top coat with furry arm bands in tech mohair and powerful broad shoulders’ proportion was the perfect example of this empowerment.
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Valentino designer Pierpaolo Piccioli took a different route, opting for a couture-like treatment in elegant floor-sweeping coats, high-waisted volume pants, long opera gloves and a sheer silk top with detailed embroideries. The monochromatic pink or black lineup forced the eye to concentrate on the lines and shapes of the garments. “When looking at one color, you have to go deeper than the surface, to texture, cuts, silhouette, volume and detail. Because I’m not a stylist, I like to be a designer,” Piccioli said. An elegant one.
Hedi Slimane is no stranger to youth glamour and for his fall collection, called “Boy Doll,” he certainly pushed that message forward. The models looked every inch glam and precious in their gold suits, tinsel fringe ponchos, sequined T-shirts and silvery hoodies. The David Bowie meets Elvis look felt fresh and ideal for now.
Egonlab designers on the rise Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix presented a heavily tailored and elegant collection that featured flowy capes, funeral chic suits — some with matching layered pleated mini skirts and head-turning sequined top coats. Even the more streetwear pieces gave a more formal spin with the addition of details such as geometric piping and fringes.
The high-glam pieces might not be boardroom ready yet, but menswear is quickly evolving and entering a progressive phase where the existing boundaries are relaxing once again.
Launch Gallery: Men’s Fall 2022 Trend: New Elegance